Visited May 2022
Ancient bristlecone pines live exclusively in eastern California, Nevada, and Utah at elevations above 9500′. They are considered the world’s oldest tree species; some are estimated to be over 4,000 years old. The famous “Methuselah tree” is in the Schulman Grove but you will not find it, the Rangers and Visitor center have made sure visitors do not know where Methuselah is. These beautiful, gnarled, and lonely trees are best seen in the White Mountains of the Inyo National Forest in California.
Things to Know Before You Go
- There are no sources of gas, food, water, or cell service once you turn off toward the forest. Bring everything you’ll need before you start the drive.
- The Schulman Grove Visitor Center may sell bottled water, but supplies can sell out. Don’t rely on it.
- Vault toilets are available at the visitor center and are well-maintained. Otherwise, plan for a pack-in/pack-out situation on the trails.
- You’ll be walking and hiking at an elevation of 10,000 feet. Take it slow, drink far more water than you think you need. The ground is very gravelly and may still have snow; wear sturdy footwear.
- Fall and winter season, snow can completely close the road, so the best time to visit is between Mid-May and early Fall. Check the Inyo National Forest website for road conditions
- Accessibility: The Visitor Center building and deck are wheelchair accessible; you can see views of the old trees from the boardwalk. None of the walks is considered accessible. The ground is uneven, but it is easy to walk on. They are considered easy-moderate.
- The Schulman Grove area is day-use only: no camping, overnight parking, or campfires are allowed.
Where We Stayed
We stayed in the town of Bishop, which is your best option in this part of California. However, I don’t remember where we stayed. It must have been a chain because I didn’t take any photos. Going in mid-May was affordable, as it was early in the visitor season.
Getting There
Ancient Bristlecone is located 23 miles following the CA-168 E off of the US-395. What seems like a short distance from town is a winding road that alternates between paved and unpaved sections and takes about 45-60 minutes to drive to the Visitors Center.
You don’t need a high-clearance vehicle; our car did just fine, and there are beautiful vista points to stop at along the way.
I don’t have many photos of the inside of the Visitor’s Center. We visited in 2022 when COVID precautions were still in effect and much of the inside was closed. Inside, you’ll find educational exhibits about bristlecone pine ecology, tree-ring science, and why these trees are able to live for thousands of years in such extreme conditions.
What We Saw
Schulman Grove
Schulman Grove is the most accessible and well-known area of the forest. From the visitor center parking lot, there are three self-guided interpretive trails that loop through the grove. Each trail features educational signs and benches for rest, and along the way, you’ll see ancient trees clinging to rocky slopes. The walk is not accessible to wheelchair users, but is considered easy-moderate. We saw plenty of people out with hiking poles and canes making it work.
Patriarch Grove
To reach Patriarch Grove, you’ll drive about 13 miles north from Schulman Grove on a well-maintained dirt/gravel road. While passable by a standard car, the gravel surface makes the drive slower, so expect a long, bumpy drive. I think it took us about an hour to do on a good weather day.
The effort is worth it, though. Patriarch Grove is home to the largest known bristlecone pine in the world, the Patriarch Tree. The moon-like surrounding landscape is wide, open, and quiet. Two short trails wind through the grove, and there’s a picnic area and vault restroom on site.
We took the Cottonwood Basin Overlook Trail. This trail is short, about 0.5 mile; however, being at a high elevation (1,200 feet above the Visitor Center) can make you tired easily, so go slow. Along the way up, there are twisted trees that stick out, so we stopped regularly to check them out, take pictures, and just admire their beauty.
What We Ate
Erick Schat’s Bakkary
For breakfast, we stopped at the classic Schatt’s Bakery, a Bishop staple as soon as they opened at 6AM to avoid the crowds. There is a reason this bakery is a destination in its own right. Fresh pastries, good coffee, and warm bread filled the shelves of this busy bakery. We enjoyed hot and cold coffees, and since our visit coincided with Donkey Days in Bishop, I bought myself the best doughnut I’ve ever seen. My donkey doughnut had smoulder, or at least world domination vibes; look at that eyebrow! He was delicious by the way, perfectly soft from a freshly made doughnut. It was the perfect start to a long day of exploring.
Copper Top BBQ
After a long day of walking and hiking, we grabbed a late lunch at Copper Top BBQ around 2-3, eating pulled pork sandwiches with potato salad and chili, sitting outside in the sun. After the cool mountain air and high elevation, this was exactly what we needed: simple and hearty. Prices were good, the people were very friendly, and the place is casual to enjoy good food and a beer.
Copper Top is right off Ancient Bristlecone Road 168, near Big Pine, so it was perfect to stop there after a day of hiking.
Molcajetes Fusion
We ended the day with a late dinner at Molcajete Fusion, known for its Mexican cuisine, molcajete creations, steak, and seafood. The place was crowded (always a good sign) with bold flavors and generous portions. We gorged ourselves on the complimentary chips and homemade salsa, and margaritas served in the more traditional Cantarito cups kept our drinks icy cold. I had enchiladas in green sauce, and hubby had a gigantic civeche. It was such a comforting and delicious way to wind down after a full day outdoors. Pricing is a bit high for our usual travels, but this was part of our anniversary trip, so we splurged on a “nice” meal.
Part of a Romantic Getaway Weekend
This post is Part 1 of our Romantic Getaway Weekend.
- Part 2: Mono Lake Coming soon.
